The ONE MILLION Mile Tesla | It Still Runs

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Published 2022-07-18
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Diving deep on how long Tesla batteries and vehicles truly last. 100,000, 400,000 or even 1 million miles!

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Topics Covered:

Tesla
Tesla News
Tesla Updates
Tesla Rumors
Tesla Leaks
New Tesla
Tesla Model Y
Model Y Tesla
Tesla Model 3
Tesla Model Y
Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
Model 3
Model Y
Model S
Model X
Tesla Details
Tesla Battery
Tesla Life
Tesla Battery Replacement
EV Battery Replacement
EV Battery
Battery Recycling
Tesla Battery Recycling
How Long Does a Tesla last
Tesla longevity
EV longevity
How long does an EV battery last

All Comments (21)
  • We've had our model S since early 2013 and had 220,000 miles on it. About 13% battery degradation
  • I've met tons of Model S owners with +350k miles on them with no issues! 🙃😃😄So twice the life of most cars and still running strong!!
  • Cars can last a REALLY LONG time if you properly do maintenance which very few people do.
  • This all syncs with my experience. I've had access to and been using a 2018 Model 3 (Dual Motor) consistently for the past two years. Maintenance has been minimal. A 12v battery was replaced under warranty (that one is more important than you'd think). But brakes, tires, etc. all held up remarkably well. Compared to my BMW 325i, this car has been extremely low maintenance.
  • My father in laws roadster went from 175 range (new) down to 166 after 14 years and that’s with all the old tech.
  • I have 303,061 miles miles on my model X 100D. The car is incredible, still runs like the day it rolled off the lot (other than loss in battery capacity)
  • That 30% loss before replacement only applies to Tesla warranties. It does not need to be replaced when it reaches 30% after the warranty expires. Tesla is just guarenteeing that you will have at least 70% remaining after 8 years
  • @AlexEVRepair
    I'm actually the owner of that "424k mi" Model S from The Drive article (now the car us at 434k mi). Unfortunately, like lots of articles, they left out a few bits of info, and made some additional assumptions. As of right now, the car still retains its 2nd pack (approaching somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-190k mi), and has ~87% capacity compared to new. Not mentioned in the article (though I believe it was addressed in the video the article was about) is that the front drive unit was actually replaced, though not until ~375k mi. The rear drive unit is still original to my knowledge. Also worth noting, I purchased the car from its original owner in Sept of 2020, at which time the car was nearly exactly 5 years old (build date of Aug 2015). At that time, it has 408k mi on it, which means the previous owner (who used the car for Uber full time) put on an average of 82k mi per year! I'm actually planning on making an update video on the car soon (and also have a few others posted on my channel). It is my daily driver, and I actually just got back from a ~2500mi road trip with it earlier this week! I actually work on these cars for a living (at a 3rd party shop, not for Tesla), and there are definitely some versions of the S that are much more problem prone that others, particularly the early models, and pretty much anything that has a Large Drive Unit (RWD or Performance).
  • @trex2092
    While waiting on my Tesla Cybertruck I am currently driving my 1998 Honda Accord which has 540,000 miles. Transmission rebuilt at 360K. I am a retired aircraft mech, maintenance is key.
  • I’ve clocked just under 50k miles in 2 years on my LR Y and a full charge is now 298 (from 303) miles. I couldn’t be more pleased.
  • I just lost my modelS to an accident, it was one of the first 4000 built, when I got the car on Feb 8 of 2013, the projected range on a full charge was 271, just before the accident it was 258, after several full supercharger visits, I was thrilled with the the battery performance.
  • Trivia: 4:19 the image of the Tesla on a bridge. This bridge is famously used endlessly by car manufacturers for product photos and videos of their cars. It's called the Sea Cliff Bridge located on the coast of Wollongong, Australia. Along the side of it is a walkway covered all the way along in engraved padlocks with couples' names on them which is pretty crazy given it's a 600m long bridge.
  • My Toyota is from 2005 and I get notes on my car to buy it all the time. As inflation, mortgage and lease rates continues to rise, it will be interesting to see how society reacts to planned obsolescence and the idea that companies keep pushing us out from ownership altogether. I want to see model 3's at the 20 year mark and their market value
  • @heyjavey
    I work in due diligence for energy storage. Some tips: low state of charge is generally good for storage (resting state-of-charge or rSOC between 20% - 40%). For LFP batteries (standard range new teslas) charge your battery to 100% every week or two so the software can recalculate range, but do not store at 100% for long periods of time. Only supercharge between 20% and 80% charge. Cycle count for a daily driver should be less than 1 full equivalent full cycle (1 EFC) per day, but standalone battery systems typically cycle 1x per day, so they are utilized more, and have a rated lifetime of 20 years. You should be able to get 20 years out of your battery with proper care.
  • @YR2050
    Honestly if you don't mind the reduced range the battery can last as long as you want.
  • 170k on my model 3 with less than 7% battery degradation, zero dollars spent on maintenance outside of tires
  • A friend’s Model S is almost up to 500k, and his costs have been a tiny fraction of an equivalent ICE car. (He’s a professional driver and on the road an awful lot.) He would never EVER go back to an ICE vehicle. He has had no MAJOR parts replaced, just things like door handles and a couple of suspension parts, and just ONE set of rotors and brake pads. And of course, he has saved a FORTUNE compared to the cost of fuel.
  • @john4kc
    I drove my 1992 Civic for 21 years. After spending $1,400 on a used engine, transmission, radiator, hoses, etc. (that's $1400 total for all that plus other stuff I didn't list), I drove it another 10 years before it ever broke down for any reason. I parked it because of rust at 585,000 miles. It still ran like a champ and I still own it. The last repairs cost me some thing like $4 for a switch and $12 for a brake cable. My current car is a '97 civic with low miles, and it should last me a long time. That's the thing about these electric cars. I'm all for them, but with an older gas car you can fix just about anything for less than $100 if you have tools. Electric cars will need less work, cost less to fuel, but those enormous repair bills are murder. I get that the average person can't fix their own car, but that's only because they don't try.
  • My experience is a bit different. I have a 2018 Model 3 with 80,000 miles on it. Repairs are almost non existent with control arms being the only thing so far for $250. I replaced the tires twice. While that is good, my battery degradation is on the bad end of any normal curve. When new I had a 310 mile range. At one point it went as low as 267 miles or a drop of 14%. I was told by Tesla as well as several YouTubers like Kim Tesla to run the car down below 10% charge and then charge to 100% to recalibrate the battery management system. There are some differences as some say when it is very low, leave it there and ping the car regularly for an hour and then charge it at a level 2 charger. Once it hits 100% do the same as far as pinging or opening the door to wake it up for an hour before driving it to get down to 90%. I did that 5 times and the range increase to 281. That was a bit over a year ago and now it stayed at 280 for awhile and suddenly dropped to 272. So I am down 12% after 4 years and 80,000 miles. Tesla service has said to expect 5% the first year and 1% each year afterward. I am nowhere near the 30% for battery replacement but it does have an effect on my 750 mile trips to my daughter especially in the winter. Does anyone know of other things to do to help?