Why do sewing machines DO THIS?! (Skit)

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2019-10-14に共有
Birdsnests. Bunching. Tangled thread. It always seems to happen - especially when you're rushing to get something sewed, or juuuuust about to finish a project. 🙄

I actually had to make a fake birdsnest on my machine for this skit :P No matter how much I tried to mess up the tension, the thing wouldn't go wrong and kept giving me perfect stitches (damn it bernina, you make a good machine!!)

Longer video coming at the end of this month, so make sure you're subscribed and following me on social media so you don't miss it 😘

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コメント (21)
  • For anyone searching for solutions, here's what I generally do! (Sorry for the super long comment, but I've found it easier to read larger comments when they're spaced out like this and not just a block of text) When you're starting a seam, hold your thread tails out of the way (I hold them towards the back of my machine, if that makes sense?) Play with tension, stitch length, stitch width (if applicable) Dust the inside of your machine! I use an old eyeshadow brush, but some people use a vacuum with teeny tiny attachments. Canned air isn't recommended because it just pushes the dust further into the machine. OIl your machine! Some machines don't need to be oiled, but some do. Check your manual before oiling, please. Change your needle! And/or try different sizes/types of needles! Thread a new bobbin. Sometimes a bobbin might look okay, but its just off enough that your machine revolts. Make sure the bobbin thread and the top thread are compatible or 'match' (not colour, that's up to you). I just make sure to match the fibres and that works for me! Try another kind of thread! Sometimes a fabric just wants a cotton thread instead of a polyester, or a polyester instead of a cotton. Also, using a higher quality thread is always a plus. I like Gutermann, as its within my budget but also a good enough quality for me to spend time sewing with it. I've also heard good things about Mettler and Aurifil, but I haven't tried them myself. If none of these work, I take a break for as long as my project will allow. Come back and try again in a bit (or the next day, or later this week, etc.) Maybe this is a chance to work on hand sewing.
  • when her sewing machine went ℘℘ℌ§ℰ§℘ℌ§ℰ℘℘ I felt that
  • When I was in school for costuming we called it “bobbin art”
  • @josea1867
    Glad to know my bobbins aren't the only ones with this attitude. :D
  • Lol even as a joke I can't imagine cancelling Annika And this happens all the time to me and I hate it
  • You are so cancelled but also immediately uncancelled for having subtitles on a video before anyone in the community had the time to add them! Not having to wait for subtitles is just the best
  • @tetsubo57
    You obviously have not made the proper sacrifices to the Sewing Gods.
  • This is the bane of my existence, especially on the spandex I used for my mermaid tail! Used the right needle and evertything, my machine just hates spandex.
  • Annika, you are SO cancelled. But honestly, I can't cancel you, you're a godsend
  • I got real freaked there for a sec when I wondered what kind of hell thread gave you that nest 😂
  • @mj13713
    Wow what a roller coaster of emotion. I was so happy to know that even an experienced sew-ist like Annika had the bunchy thread business, then so betrayed when it was all staged 😭
  • @10MoNiOl
    This happened to me for a long time until i realized that bobbins come in different sizes so slight, you can't even really tell unless you're holding two different ones up to each other. A properly fitted bobbin will sit on the shaft and spin at a metered rate, so you get the correct amount of bottom thread. A bobbin with a hole that's too big will spin wildly and spit up way, way too much thread. If you're having this problem, maybe check your sewing machine manual for the right gauge of bobbins, or go shopping with a bobbin that came with your sewing machine and find one with an identically sized hole. This is what I did to solve this problem. I don't know if other thongs can cause this issue. Good luck, yall!
  • No joke, you should make a list of causes and solutions. Even if it's 2 hours long
  • In addition to Kate's fabulous recommendations I have a few extra tips:- Never use supermarket cheapo thread! I won't even hand stitch with those! If using metallic thread - use only in the top and put a silky light thread in the bobbin. Experiment first on old bit of fabric Also the more expensive Titanium coated needles last a long time especially when free machining as they do not get burrs/grooves worn in the needle eye. I use a size 90 needle for all my free machining especially when using metallic thread. Use the correct needle size for the weight of your thread. Smaller size needle for Lighter threads ie 70 ok for light threads and 90 for heavier weight thread. A denim needle for denim and a leather one for leather obviously. For knits/jersey you will need a ball point needle so that it doesn't snag the fine fabric. I don't know about playing with the tension but I have found that the recommended settings are usually the best. Read your Manual. I find modern machines ie machines with top loading bobbins are less forgiving than the older type machines where bobbins go in a case underneath. Try to use the bobbins made by the manufacturer of your machine not cheap generic ones which rattle and move about noisily. I prefer metal bobbins but they don't seem to be made anymore. Regarding oil. ..newer machine models don't need as much oiling maybe once a year if you sew quite a bit but make sure you clean your machine often. Check before every use. A little make up brush is good but use a new one. After oiling your machine sew foe a bit on a scrap bit of fabric. You djnt want oil on you good fabric. Change your needle every 8 hours of use or for each new project. Use good quality needles. Sometimes you get birds nests when you try to sew flimsy fabric so use a vilene iron backing or a bit of heavier fabric like calico ( called Muslin in America) if you want to sew decorative stitches on thin fabric. Regarding free machining. ...do lower the feed dogs. I know my friend doesn't on her expensive Brother but I always do. The feed dogs/teeth are what grip the fabric and you don't want that when free machining. For free machining get an extra bobbin race (for top loaders) another metal bobbin case for underneath loaders. ..Sorry can't remember the proper term... Then you can loose the screw a bit for more successful free machining and quilting. I marked mine with a blob of nail varnish. Janome have a special looser tension bobbin race for their machines that you can buy. It's 40 % looser. Its marked with a blue arrow. Red for normal tension comes with the machine. I would also recommend not buying cheap sewing machines. Anything under £350 won't have a powerful enough motor if you are sewing regularly. It also seems that there is no longer much between the makes as they are all made in Japan and China not Britain or Switzerland. But then so are most makes of car so I guess that's progress? Industrials are not expensive and come set into a table (flat bed) but don't have all the decorative stitches. The old models with metal parts seem to last forever but you need to understand tension etc or have a good mechanic! And quite a bit of room. I learnt to sew age 7 ( what was my mother thinking? Those things are fast! ) on one that had been used in a tent factory and we altered jeans no problem. Quite a shock to have to change needles on my household make. Hope that you found this helpful and that I didn't sound like a know it all! Just sew and have fun!
  • @Kaytlynne
    I only clicked on the video to get this question answered but instead I'm leaving with more questions 👀