Power sliding door cable replacement. 2011 - 2017 Honda Odyssey

139,441
0
2019-09-09に共有
* 31:02 ** In the video I have the cable location on spool wrong in my instruction. **
** Back cable goes on the back of the spool, front cable to front of spool **

Replacement of the power sliding door cable on a 2011 to 2017 Honda Odyssey. As you can tell though out the video I really have no idea what I'm doing. Enjoy!

コメント (21)
  • **READ COMMENTS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!** Awesome video, thanks for the work. If you're trying this yourself, please note that the video shows incorrect routing for the cables. Some good comments below. Cable coming from the back attaches at the back of the spool and the cable coming from the front attaches at the front of the spool. The cables do not cross over each other. They should route straight up from the guides onto the spool. This job would have taken me 2 hours rather than 5 if I had read the comments first.
  • @wagslick
    Thanks for the video. Couldn't have fixed without it. I just got finished and here are a few tips: 1. You're probably thinking about buying that crimping tool from amazon. Don't. It's worthless. Just use some strong vice grips. 2. Careful how much you jack up the door. Also, don't touch the jack after the pin is out. It's a real pain to get the pin back in if the jack changed its height. 3. A T-40 screwdriver would have been great. All I had was a T-30, but it still worked. 4. That little C-clip that holds the pin in is a pain. Get a pick. 5. Pay close attention to the part about wrapping the cable. Back cable goes in back of spool. Front cable goes in front of spool. 6. When first wrapping the spool, the cable should seat down in the grooves flush with the spool. You may need a flat head screwdriver to seat the cables when first starting to wrap the spool. 7. Once the spool is wrapped, there should be no slack in cable. 8. Just as in the video, throw in a few screws to hold the assembly together when testing it. I put in all screws and bolts and ended up taking them all out again. 9. Block off the whole afternoon. Took me 6 hours (But I struggled with a few parts).
  • Thank you BackYard Tech and the numerous comments. I had the problem with the passenger side door. All fixed now. What a tremendous resource this is. Restores my faith in humanity and proves that the internet can be used for the power of good.
  • Just passing on the thanks like everyone else! Worked on my 2016 Ex. Splendido's advice about putting the door all the way back and swin7k's advice for using electric tape to hold things in place made things go smoothly. About 3 hours following step by step. Thanks again BackYard Tech for taking the time to make this video!
  • @m4gician
    Okay I finally did this and pulled it off! The key that I didn't do before was lube everything up and ensure the white plastic pieces on the motor were compressed properly. Thank you SO MUCH for a well laid out and detailed video. The ferrules are smaller than the original ones.
  • Fixed my 2012 yesterday... used same parts... it was the second time for the passenger side door on this van and couldn’t bring myself to spend the money taking it to the dealer again. Took me 6 hours ... next time could do it in half the time. Your video was helpful- thank you!!!
  • @swim7k
    Excellent video! Thank you for posting - you saved me lots of money. My repair went exactly as you demonstrated. I used electrical tape to hold in the cable sheathing and tensioners. It made the winding of the cable much easier.
  • Thanks so much for this video. I did the fix on my '11 today, passenger side. Without your video I would never have attempted this, so you totally saved me $1,000 or more. One note, on my application, the front cable starts on the outboard side of the drive pulley and the rear cable starts on the inboard side of the drive pulley. It would definitely not work the other way.
  • Thanks for the great video! I ordered the kit on Friday, Saturday I took the panels off. The cable came in today, Monday. It took about 2 hours total. I wound the wires the way they appeared to be, but when I tested them they were backwards, so I rewound them. It looks wrong but the cables go up on the same side as the direction of the cable. ( The front cable goes up on the left side of the wheel, and the rear cable goes up the right side of the wheel.) Once I flipped them it wouldn't close all the way, so I reset the motor, by pulling the fuse then holding the close button on the dash. But, it still didn't want to close correctly, I opened the cover again, took the wheel out, made sure the wires were in the correct locations, then put it back together and it worked perfectly! Thanks again!
  • Thank you. I just fixed my sliding door while watching your video step-by-step. Worked perfectly. The only change was I connected the rear cable to the rear of the spool and the cable that goes towards the front to the front of the spool. I also did not place the door in the center. I had the door open all the way this way I had to wind up the rear cable a lot and the front cable only a little. It made it a little easier to keep the cables under control while trying to get the spool back in the motor. Thanks again for an excellent video.
  • Thank you so much. Without your video I couldn't have dreamt about replacing my broken cable. Mine was on the other side and a there was a fan exhaust in the way. I also couldn't get the roller the same way you did, had to remove the bolts. I used masking tape to mark the spot and didn't have any issue putting it back. The ferrule crimper tool that I bought was garbage, I had to use pliers to tighten these ferrules enough. Otherwise I followed all your instructions and it took me about 6 hours to get my door fixed. Thank you again so much!
  • @alexb8971
    Just fixed min in only 3 or 4 hours (with cleanup)! Thank you so much - the process went flawlessly! I did have to disassembly both the rear and front cable guides (that guide that cable to the exterior of the vehicle) but no issues. Winding the spool was much easier for me - only took about 10 min. Thank you so much!
  • Well, you certainly helped me fix my door. I wouldn't have tried this without your video as a guide. The parts I bought also provided videos (by email, not posted). There was an important contradiction between the two videos. At 31:00 you incorrectly state what cables goes on each side of the pulley. Although you are working the drivers side door, you gave instructions for the passenger side door. If one follows your instructions for the drivers side door, the cable will cross and the open/close functions will switch and produce erroneous data for the position sensors. You must have figured this out because at 34:10 it is very clear that the cables do not cross and you corrected this error in your installation. Also, I found it easier to hand wind the cable with the door nearly fully open. That way I only had to keep one cable tight on the pulley and not two. Otherwise, I had no issues. You did a great job of pointing out where the troubles are. I think I saved over $1500. Thanks.
  • @a4223z
    I just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU. Just finished switching both cables on my 2015 Odyssey and this video helped so much. Cheers to you my friend.
  • @ottergt
    Just did my passenger side, many thanks!!! Winding the spool is definitely a 2 person job. I had to replace the cables on the passenger side of our 2014 Touring...The rear cable sheath is bolted to the body behind the rear A/C system. After trying unsuccessfully to thread the new cable through from the outside (without removing the sheath), I took a long section of the broken cable and cut the end at an angle (using bolt cutters)...this allowed me to feed it through from the outside pretty easily (the angled end got around the pulley without catching on the internal ribbing). I then put the end of the new cable against the end of the old cable and used a long piece of packing tape to wrap around them, joining them together. Gently pulling the old cable through while my wife pushed the new cable from the outside allowed us to feed the new cable through the sheath without removing the A/C system to unbolt the sheath.
  • Thank you very much for posting this video. Just finished replacing the cables on the passenger side. Took me a day and a half to complete but saved me a grand easily!
  • Great video. Was easy to follow and no hidden surprises. Order the same part as you used. Took me about three hours from start to finish. Very happy with the outcome...
  • Cant thank you enough, fixed both sides of my 2014 in an afternoon. You are awesome.
  • Thanks a ton for posting this. I just did my 2016 tonight and the door is now working. Without this video I probably would not have attempted it myself. It took me and my bro about 2 hours or so to get it done. Saved at least $1000 bucks! And for anyone looking to do this, it's not too bad, just be patient and follow this video, all the steps are there. Note (as many others have) that what he says about winding the cable is wrong, for the driver side door fix the cable on the left (opener) goes on the back of the spool, and the right (closing) cable goes on the front. The cables should NOT cross after coming through the white tensioners, they stay on the same side. I think its also mentioning that the cheap cable Honda uses is pathetic, and shame on them for putting their customers through this, my van is 3 1/2 years old and it snapped! Should be covered under warranty, i guess its too easy to collect the $1000 bucks for when people bring their vehicles in for repair. Big thanks to people like "BackYard Tech" who post videos to help us out and save some money. Good luck to all who attempt!!
  • This is a life saver! In the last four months the driver and passenger door cables have snapped. Although this looks time consuming I would rather do this than pay the dealership $1200 per door. thanks for the detailed work.