Best Toyota Tundra 5.7 Alternator Replacement Video W/Torque Specs & Belt Routing & No Stupid Music

JDM TECH LLC
JDM TECH LLC
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Published 2021-01-10
*You will need to reset your idle once this job is completed, or anytime you disconnect your battery, see my no B.S video on the idle relearn procedure here:

   • Toyota Tundra Tacoma 2007+ Idling Hig...  

In this video I show you how to easily and quickly replace the alternator on the 5.7 I-Force V8 engine, also known as the 3UR-FE

Some helpful tips:

*Pin the belt tensioner in the released position

*Be careful with the ears that mount the power steering pump to the engine block as they are part of the block, break it and your goose is cooked, read on!

* you can use a file or roloc disc on an angle grinder to clean up the surfaces on the power steering pump and the mount bushing within the mounting ears to make it easier to remount the pump as it is a tight fit, don’t take off too much, And cover your new alternator so you don’t put metal shavings into it if you go that route

* Power steering pump two bolts, 14 mm socket, 27 NM

*Alternator mounting screws three, and one stud, 14mm socket, both forward Fasteners use dowels for alignment, so one stud, and one screw, clean all hardware, may be very tight due to corrosion, tighten to 43 mm

* alternator cable and transmission cooler lines bracket screw at front of alternator 31nm

*Battery + wire to alternator 87lbs/inch

*Remove the trans cooler lines mounting bolt towards the rear of the engine right near the oil pan

*You will need to reset your idle once this job is completed, Or anytime you disconnect your battery, see my video on the idle relearn procedure


Symptoms leading up to this job where as follows, the customer was driving down the highway the engine started to lose power and proceeded to shut down, and would not restart would not crank, battery was dead was unable to be jumped, upon replacing the battery vehicle still would not start, and I found the alternator hot, indicating an internal short.

Although I do not know you I tried to help you hopefully this has accomplished my goal, please like subscribe and turn on notifications for new videos on repairs that I do in the future thanks.
All Comments (21)
  • @johndaigh3188
    Thank you very much for thinking of others and posting this video. I am in my 60's and was intimidated by this job until I saw your video. I just finished and your video was extremely helpful.
  • @itmercenaries6868
    By far the best video for this procedure on the Tundra with the 5.7. I will add a couple more tips: Disconnect the sway bar (2 bolts each side) and let it hang from the end links. Tons more room and easy to do (well at least if you have air tools....which you should). The stud that the alternator hangs off (and attaches via the nut) is removable with a star socket (can't recall actual name, happen to have a set). You get tons more room to move the alternator around if you take that stud out. The grommets shown in the video (for the stud hole and bottom/hole below in the alternator) typically stick in the block. I recommend leaving them there as it's easier to reinstall this way. THE POWER STEERING PUMP!!! Prepare for war. That grommet that is inside the bracket is often VERY tight against the PS pump. I used a 24" pry bar between the top of the pump and the upper control arm bolt (as seen in the video) with the trust BFH (big F hammer) to influence the pump downward and out of the bracket. One more note on the power steering pump: IT IS ATTACHED WITH TWO BOLTS...TWO! NOT THREE!). I have to mention this as few people mention this. You will find (looking at the front of the engine) that there is a bolt at 12 and another at around 3. BOTH are accessible through the whole in the PS pump pulley. The bolt at around 1-2 is NOT a bolt that holds the PS pump...that is part of the bracket itself to the block. Fear not, take the 12 o'clock long bolt out, the 3 o'clock SHORT bolt out, then get to work with the pry bar! Due to a ridiculously small amount of room, I see no way to use the upper bolt and hit it with enough force to full reseat that grommet. C-clamp (small one) to the rescue. LASTLY...THANK THANK THANK YOU for showing how to get the wire harness out of the way and how to remove the alternator from the bottom. The other videos showing the alternator coming out the side? I'd rather pull the whole engine...way too cramped that way. Bottom out is the way!
  • @jimfrydenlund27
    This is the best video I have found for the Tundra alternator replacement. Thank you for going step by step. Well done Jeff, you're a good man!
  • @fcah333
    The dealer priced the job at 6.5 hrs. Thanks to your video I was able to do it myself in 3! 😁
  • @craig2316
    Great video. It’s still helping folks. Two of your tips really helped me out - 1) loosen the trans lines at the oil pan, 2) leave the back, lower bolt in when installing the new alternator. I had to use a cheap borescope to make sure I had the holes lined up in the power steering pump when reinstalling.
  • @arc2arc4me
    Nice video.Thank you for taking the time to put together this content. The advice was spot on! Since my engine was due for replacement of the coolant (50 k mile interval) and new radiator hoses (first replacement at 13 yrs, 160K) I pulled the fan shroud and fan The increased access was well worth the minimal time to pull the shroud. In addition to better access to a realy tight space with the shroud out of the way to it becomes much easier to reset the sliding shoulder on the power steering mount. I inserted a long rod from the front of the truck, past the radiator, and placed the rod end on the shoulder in the mount. A single rap with a ballpeen did the trick. I tried rapping the end of the inserted bolt but was unable to move it. If you are working from the ground and under the truck the better access with the shroud reomved in a big plus. If you have the truck on a lift and can adjust the height to fit the task probably not so much.
  • @jacobkirchner7409
    Wow, super helpful video, thanks so much for posting this! Job was a major pain in the ass, but I couldn't have done it without this video. Also, as someone else said, I definitely had to take the sway bar off in order to get enough leverage/room to break loose the two long bolts on the bottom of the alternator. Be careful with those sway bar bolts as the nut on the back is welded on the inside of the frame and if you break that you are SOL. Another thing that helped me was tying the main radiator hose out of the way with a rope. It is right in the way of the steering pump bolt at 3 o'clock and I just didn't have enough hands to hold that hose out of the way, thread the bolt in, and tighten it up. For the PS pump grommet, I couldn't get a hammer in there but was able to thread the shorter bolt in and use a big pry bar against the bolt to push the grommet back out. Definitely don't waste time trying to jam the pump back in without doing this first, you will just get angry and hurt yourself! Putting the pin/drill bit in the belt tensioner is also a huge help so you don't have to fight the belt on the way back in. Probably took me 4-4.5 hours in the end, could have been a little faster if I had taken the sway bar off and tied that hose back in the beginning but all in all one of the harder alternators I have done. Thanks again for a no nonsense video with some very helpful tips! Toyota manual calling for the radiator removal to do this just seems insane. I am not removing my radiator unless it has a hole in it!
  • @fcah333
    Thank you sooooooo much for this video. I was able to change the alternator myself but wouldn't have been able to do it without this video!!!! You are the man!!!
  • @khampanemountry2323
    Great video, #1 rule is before working on/or replacement your Alternator. Always disconnect your vehicle battery cable first. negative is black cable. For your safety.
  • @coryedens9683
    I'm disappointed this video didn't come up first as it is the best video. I spent an hour-and-a-half messing with getting around those metal lines with no word of them from any of the other videos. Thanks for your input. I literally screamed F**k Toyota at the top of my lungs when i crawled out from under this tundra. Thanks again
  • @erock6991
    Thanx man, you rocked on the little details we ran into doing this job..very helpful video. All 4 of the sway bar nuts spun on me though....FYI... I'm now using a jigsaw to cut bigger holes in the outside holes in the frame to be able to re-bolt the sway bar... I'll let ya know how that works out for me...😂😂...thanx again
  • @joyboyboy
    How do you disconnect wiring. One of mine has a hard plastic covering
  • @limeallens6160
    Would there be more room if the radiator shroud and fan were removed?
  • @stephensueyoshi4651
    The mounting dowel pins that go behind the unit are rusted into the alternator. I went to the dealership and they said that they don't exist...??? I need to replace them on my new alternator. Anyone have a part number? 2007 5.7 Tundra. Thanks!!!
  • @Mytruth603
    He said he was going to be quick but he didn’t get into it till after 7 minutes holy hell