30 Minute Secret Makes Your Water Heater Last Decades

Congrats to our three anode rod winners with the best stories! With help from Corro-Protec, we selected three stories that really stood out, including rocket launched water heaters, dislocated shoulders and Christmas Eve catastrophes. Congratulations to @Al-sh6if, @jerrycallo and @nathanhills4781 for sharing their awesome stories and being selected as the winners of this contest. We have reached out to them already but you can pick up your own Corro-Protec powered anode rod using this link: www.corroprotec.com/powered-anode/

This is some of the best information I have come across on YouTube. I had never heard about this DIY process and have spent lots of money replacing water heaters over the years, one being during a time when my brother was sick with cancer. Every time I see my water heater I think of my brother and myself replacing the tank. It was the last DIY project that we did together before he passed. Rest in Peace Barry, I miss you brother.

Tip for pipe thread. Put teflon tape on first then pipe dope. You will never get a leak. I am a pipefitter and this is how we do it. If you have a impact gun that anode rod will come right out. If you have a electric hot water tank turn breaker off. When you drain water you may exposé top heating element to air and it will burn out. Make sure hot water tank is full before turning breaker on. Great video.

Have had my powered anode rod for nearly 13 years now. Can confirm they do in fact work since my water heater is still going at nearly 20 years old.

Back in the 60's, my best friend in middle schools father was a plumber. Their house backed up to woods and many weekends he and I would set up our pup tents and camp out back there. As you said, water heaters seem to always fail on weekends and we were often pressed into service helping his dad swap them out. To this day I still remember him telling us how important it was to flush the heater out at least once a year and also how he never changed out a leaking heater that had a good anode rod in it. I committed that advice to memory and now I'm 73 and in all my life I have NEVER had to replace a complete water heater (over the decades have replaced many electric elements and gas valves, though!) I was disappointed you did not mention the fact that anode rods come in the length for the most common water heaters and you may need to hacksaw them down for heaters that are shorter than normal so you do not damage the bottom of the tank when you screw it in!

Also, be sure to check your clearance above the water tank before attempting this. Trying to pull out a 4 ft anode rod with 2 ft of clearance above the tank will require some creative solutions.

My brother called from 800 miles away to tell me our dad was in the hospital close to death, and I should get up there right away. While getting ready to leave, I noticed the water heater had just begun to leak onto the floor. That "time bomb" was about to go off! had I left a day earlier, I would have returned to a complete disaster area. That was before I bought my house. At that time, I was in an apartment, so I couldn't just shut everything off, drain it and leave. The maintenance crew installed ball valves on both the input and output pipes which is smart because it's easier now to change the water heater. I narrowly avoided a complete disaster!! By the way, Dad pulled through and we celebrated his 90th birthday last year. Speaking of water heaters, I need to put a new water heater in the house I bought and I'm glad I saw your channel, and subscribed.

Based on the information you provided in your video, I installed a Corro-Protec anode in my Bradford White water heater a few months ago, and I'm very happy with it so far - thanks! I do want to mention that the Corro-Protec 20-year warranty covers only the anode, and they do not make any specific claims regarding how long a water heater will last with their anode installed. It is obviously a vast improvement over standard anodes, but consumers should not be given the impression that their water tanks will last 20 years with a Corro-Protec anode.

You are so nice! Thank you! In 2012 our water heater gave up the ghost the day before my father, then in Hospice, died. In desperation and needing a shower, a plumber came to assist AND gave me a hug when the replacement was complete.

These anode rods can be long in size. While removing the old one you may hit the ceiling trying to get it out. There for you have to cut it with a cut wheel. Lift it up about half way and put a vice grip on the part your cutting so when it’s cut it won’t fall into the tank. Then with the rod shorter you should be able to get all of it out. Hope this helps. Learned from experience.

I was always told that torque wrenches are not supposed to be used to loosen things, only to tighten them down. At least that's what my instructions that come with them say.

The corro-protect anode sounds like a great idea. Im gonna check it out, thanks for the tip. A couple comments on the video: 1: Shut off the cold supply and open any hot water tap in the hosue to relieve the pressure, actuating the TRV could cause it to leak. 2) let the heater cool before draining, hot water can destroy a garden hose and cause scalding. 3) try using a 1/2 impact driver extract the old anode. If that doesnt work then go to the manual method using a breaker bar, BUT never use a torque wrench as a breaker, at best it will knock it out of calibration or worse

Very informative video. One note: A torque wrench should only be used to tighten, never to loosen.

Cool. Nursed an electric for 25 years. Many elements and intense de-liming every 2 yrs. Just purchased a new Rheem and will definitely be going with a CORRO PROTEC. Devine intervention stumbling on your video. Thank you!

One Thanksgiving morning my family woke up to find no hot water. My mom instantly declared that Thanksgiving was canceled. My dad declared it was not. He jumped in his truck and sped off to Home Depot. Before I knew it he was back with a new water heater. We had it installed in record time. Thanksgiving was saved!

Good coverage of the details for this project, thanks! I will add that my electric water heater from Menards (Rheem Marathon) has a lifetime warranty and no anode rod (the tank interior is some kind of plastic, I think). My only water heater maintenance is to flush a few gallons out every month or two... and this water heater was installed 14 years ago. However, I did replace the anode rod in my girlfriend's water heater last month and it was an absolute bear to get that baby loose. I highly recommend using an impact driver as the belts will often work (as spin stoppers) but, using the belt technique, this anode rod would not loosen even after I added 2.5' of lever arm (via a pipe) to my 12" 1/2 socket wrench (and, no, I'm not that weak! ;-)). I gave up on that and ended up using my DeWalt impact driver set to the max 700 ft. lbs. (number 3 setting) since 100 (number 1) and 300 (number 2) didn't loosen the nut. That highest impact setting did the job in about 5 seconds... and an impact wrench eliminates the issue of the water tank spinning while not requiring any belt magic. By the way, if there's not enough vertical clearance to remove an old anode rod, it's pretty easy to pull it up a ways and then cut through it with a hacksaw (make sure to not drop any cut piece(s) into the tank!). Impact wrenches are not cheap, I know, but it would be worth it to borrow one from a friend (think Dagwood's neighbor, Herb) and just make sure that your 6 point socket is specified as "Impact Ready". Well, just my $.02...

Brother you should not be using a torque wrench to break bolts free, you will throw it out of calibration! Thanks for the video. Inspired me to change my anode!

The anode rod you plugged is exactly what I installed a few years ago! I can confirm that it does in fact reduce any foul smell in hot water. Prices sure have shot up, it was only $96 when I bought mine!

I a a marine engineer, and have been familiar with anodes composed of zinc, magnesium, aluminum and other alloys for 45 years. These are generically called "zincs". Powered anodes have been common for decades. Ironically, use of any of these anodes is called cathodic protection. Rule of thumb: inspect anodes periodically (once a year is fine for water heaters) and replace the anode or zinc when it is 50% deteriorated. You may not need to change it every year, but 3 years may well be too late. I was advised that the newer water heaters with only a 7 year warranty have one anode, and 14 year warranted heaters have two. I have not personally verified this, although it makes sense. I have been advised that zincs protect iron that is in line-of-sight from the zinc (why there are so many zincs positioned on ships rudders and surrounding hull. Areas outside line of sight are not so well protected. This was shown to be true with a water heater I once had. Although I had kept up with the zinc replacements, the heater corroded through on the opposite side from the center exhaust pipe (propane water heater) where it was welded into the top about 12 years after installation. Now I have an electronic anode (not the brand advertised in this vid). The manufacturer advises this anode protects the whole tank regardless of obstacles. They advised putting it on its own surge protector, which I did for the $200+ e-anode. I blow down my heater each month. I installed a full ported ball valve in place of the factory drain spigot and have a hose to a floor drain. I make sure the heater has been off for at least an hour, turn it off, and then open the valve fully for 20 seconds. Close it for 5 minutes to let agitated water and debris inside to settle, then open it wide again for 20 seconds. It's all a pain, but replacing the power-vented 80 gallon heater would cost over $3000.

20 years and 5 months ago I got home from divorce court and my wife who I was divorcing told me from a distance that the water heater was leaking water. That was the last normal but short conversation we ever had as husband and wife. I had had only a few hours of sleep in the last 2 days prior and had been on the witness stand for two days. (My wife of 19 years had left me with our 4 kids over the weekend while she was out and about with her friends again.) Seeing that the water heater was shot, I drove to Menard's and bought a replacement water heater by myself. Unloaded the new water heater by myself, and installed it by myself. Then I pushed the old water heater up the basement stairs and put it on the curb for trash pickup. Everyone was sleeping when I was done cleaning up. The next day I was on the witness seat again, with very little rehearsing of what would be covered. That water heater is still in service and I pray I don't have to change it out as it was a very tight fit. I had to reuse the 50-year-old galvanized joints and pipes and I had to jerry-rig a funnel under one leaking connector with a cut-up garden hose taped onto the funnel. The end of the hose fortunately ended in the sump pump basin, and it's been like that ever since.