Pro cabinet makers don’t want you to know how to do this

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Published 2024-07-14
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Freud Adjustable Bit Set - amzn.to/3zO7b8V
Mitutoyo Digital Calipers - amzn.to/4eWY9ql
iGauging Setup Blocks - amzn.to/3xXogwO
Microjig Gripper - tsoproducts.com/clamping-workholding/push-blocks/m…
Fastcap Tape Measure - amzn.to/3WjVWxR
Paolini Ruler - www.ustoolandfastener.com/woodpeckers-paolini-pock…
Titebond Quick and Thick - amzn.to/3y6dKTT
Bessey Revo Parallel Clamp - amzn.to/3W5ijpw
Festool Sanding Blocks - www.ustoolandfastener.com/495966/?aff=3

#cabinet #cabinetdoor #cabinetry

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All Comments (21)
  • @paulgreene9997
    You're a good teacher - very clear and articulate, easy to understand and detail oriented.
  • @markarita3
    22:34 Little tip: sand those "inner corners" before assembly, there's less chance of catching panel plus you can easily access the entire length of the piece. Awesome video! I wasn't even aware of adjustable router bits. Thanks.
  • I'm building my own home, the shell is almost done. I plan on making all my own cabinets and although i have made shaker style doors before this is the best tutorial I have ever seen and will follow Brent's method in the future, I just added the adjustable router bit to my Amazon cart. Thank you for your excellent videos.
  • @billj5645
    I have a friend that owns a cabinet shop. He uses 1/2" thick material for his panels in order to make a door that feels more solid. He cuts the same 1/4" dado in the rails and stiles then cuts a rabbit in the edges of the panel to fit, the extra panel thickness essentially makes the panels flush out with the back faces of the rails and stiles.
  • Best tutorial for shaker doors I’ve seen yet. Would be cool if install was part 2.
  • @jimserhant7741
    Another great tutorial to make my morning coffee taste that much better. A proper setup always ensures you don’t mess up & determines how your final product ends up.
  • @b1j
    Yes. I was making my doors about the same time you posted this video. Just seeing it now. I used a coping sled to reduce degrees of freedom and make coping the rails less stressful. I used the Freud bit set and made my doors from hard white maple. My “1/4-inch” plywood fit perfectly in the stock Freud set’s spacing. I broke the edges before assembly with a block plane and a sanding block. Good video. Very straightforward. One fine point: routing with this bit set is probably only feasible with a stout router lift. I can adjust my JessEm to 0.002”.
  • @jamesmkoenig
    A good tip for aligning the height of the bit for cutting the rail tenons: Cut a piece of the panel material about 1 inch wide and put it in the groove of a stile. Use that as a gauge for the height by inserting it into the gap on bit. You should be able to spin the router bit and have it drag on that material both top and bottom. That way you don't have to eyeball the grove vs the gap on the bit. It either fits or it doesn't. By the way, love the videos, keep em coming!
  • @DStephens2488
    I just wasted $140 in poplar trying to build shaker doors using the table saw. Learned my lesson and I’m buying these router bits and never looking back.
  • @abad_gtr1123
    another impeccably timed video Jason! my wife wants to update our doors to the shaker style and i've had the Freud router bit set sitting around for over a year. this video explains how to utilize them perfectly. i'm feeling pretty confident now.....nothing to it but to do it! cheers
  • Great vid. Couple of suggestions: 1) if one starts by cutting the tenon in the scrap piece first, you can use the tenon itself to easily set up the mortise and get it absolutely perfect. No need for so much measuring and no need for two separate scrap pieces. 2) for better consistency and cleaner cuts on the tenon, one can buy boards at least double the needed width, cut the tenons first, and then rip to size. (The drawback of this is a little extra sanding or planing on the cut edge to remove saw marks). Another time saver is to pre-cut the mortises on full length boards before cutting to length. 3) when measuring the panel, there’s no need at all to measure the outside dimension of the door and then subtract the rail width. Simply dry fit the stiles and rails and measure the INSIDE length, then add the groove depth (x2). 4) unless the panel is MDF, it’s good to leave 2-3mm clearance on all sides to account for wood expansion, and the panel should never be glued.
  • @garybadger325
    Great video. I have always pencil marked my good faces (GF) of the rail and style and placed the GF down on the router table when routing. This always made sure the rails and stiles always matched up. Again, love the adjustable router bits.
  • @w2ttsy670
    Amazing content. Would love to see your technique for doing micro shaker profiles. Most examples I’ve seen are slab doors on a CNC, so would be good to see alternative methods.
  • @Overlegen_Dre
    I am about to make some doors for the closet. So this video is really helpful :)
  • @guybowers9094
    Great tutorial on the shaker door build. Going to use this method for sure
  • @GK-qz3cm
    Jason, great video. Will greatly help me improve my shaker doors. Thanks.
  • @randalblair
    fantastic tutorial. Your videos have helped me to be much better at woodworking!
  • @botch3936
    I admire your ability to futz with router bit nuts and washers over that open router table cabinet, without dropping anything in; I can't do that. ;).