Cub Cadet Hydro Relief Valve Leak: Repair and Replacement
107,385
Published 2011-04-12
All Comments (21)
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@TheSaturnV Hello Saturn V: Loved watching your video on the valve replacement. This is Mark, I'm the guy from E-bay that repaired your valve. To answer a ? in the video. I use a tig welder. I'm sure the mig would use to much heat to join the parts with the extra wire feeding out of it. I don't use filler rod either.This keeps the weld nice and small. Also, I wanted to point out that I now carry a "new valve" that is rebuildable. "NO LATHE NO WELDING" See my ebay for details. Thanks, Mark C.
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Thank you, glad you liked it. And yes, that is great info about his website. He's a great resource for keeping these old garden tractors up and running. He also sells rebuild kits for the Cub steering boxes, and those parts are also of really good quality.
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I have an old 682 sitting back in the field with no motor on it looks similar man.! Great video
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Thanks for posting this, another very good option for these valves.
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@z978ady Jerky motion is likely from being low on fluid, which is a chronic issue due to the leaky valves. They pump out your fluid pretty quickly as you drive around, and leave pools when you park. It's easy to blow through a bunch of that expensive HyTran fluid this way, so might as well fix the valves sooner than later.
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That's a really nice tractor you got
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Great Job!!!! I have never come across this problem(yet) so I'm glad you did this vid. Thumbs up!!
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They do. One side is forward, the other reverse and the valves are identical. As far as the one with the pin, that is a manual valve, the other an automatic. The older machines, like the narrow frame 147's, 100's, etc. have a lever on the side that is attached to a spring lever inside that pushes down on those valve buttons to release pressure. The larger valve is an automatically functioning valve and is a direct replacement. Lots of folks replace their old manual valves with the autos. HTH!
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Thanks for the tip. I hope it's going to be that easy.
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Thanks again for mentioning me on this video. Just wanted to let everyone know that we countersink the area where the end cap sits and we re-crimp it. no longer weld it. mark C. Machtech direct
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@1968hambone Thank you HB. It is definitely my favorite piece of equipment here on our city farm.
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great job Saturn......love that 882 bro!
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One valve controls forward and the other reverse. As a test, you may try to swap the valves (they're identical) and see if the condition reverses itself, then you'll be able to rule out the valves. The next thing to check is your hydrostat linkages. There are some adjustments that can be made, springs that may be worn out and a handful of other reasons your linkage may not be working right that would cause your problem. Hope you get it figured out.
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Nice job Saturn! I do like that diesel beast.
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Mein Chewy is digging this diesel.
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@2LateIWon Hey thanks. I put up with the leak for awhile but couldn't stand it any longer! :)
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@ShnitzlHaus You've already got an awesome diesel young man, let others have a chance! :P Yes, the lathe is to cut the crimp / lip off the end, which allows the tip to pop out, along with all the the innards. The O rings and whatnot are replaced, then the tip is snapped back in place and tiny tack welds finish the job. You can see why you want to be sure and do the welds right.
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@TheSaturnV I know what you mean I'll put up with something for so long then I'll snap and put everything else aside till I get it fixed. Good thing it was a pretty simple fix.
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Nice job. I wish I had college professors that taught as well as you do.
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@IHcubcadet Yes, these are the autos. I shot some video discussing the manual vs. auto valves but the whole thing drug on too long. The manual valves are repairable by a similar method.
