The Way to the Matterhorn

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Published 2021-04-09
It has been a long dream of Julia Lyubova as a mountaineer to climb the Matterhorn. The world famous mountain that sits at the top of Zermatt in Switzerland has attracted thousands of climbers over the years. At 4478m it is considered to be one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps. In this film Julia Lyubova and local Zermatt guide Andreas Steindl go on an epic journey to climb to the summit of the Matterhorn. It is no easy task but they make it in 3.5 hours and enjoy the views from a very windy summit. But this is only half of the story, the journey back down is even harder...

A film by Julia Lyubova. Find her on Instagram: @juliainthealps

Entered for the BMC TV Women In Adventure film competition 2021, sponsored by Montane #WAF21

Find out more: www.thebmc.co.uk/waf

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All Comments (21)
  • I climbed the Matterhorn solo in 1965. From Hotel Mont Cervin I hiked to the Hörnli Hut and stayed the night. Early the next morning I set off and free climbed this route without much drama. The descent was quite different. Several times I went off route, unfortunately wandering to sections where I had to re-trace my steps. After awhile I was just concentrating on making sure that I was on route and testing each handhold and foothold because a lot of the mountain is incredibly loose. Rock fall, as mentioned by Julia, is one of the foremost dangers. By about 1:00 pm I was back at the hut; I collected my gear and then hiked back down to the hotel for a hot bath and a splendid dinner. I've climbed the Matterhorn a few times since then along with the highest peak in each Western European country and all of the fourteeners in Colorado, but this climb in 1965 stands out as truly memorable. Not a bad accomplishment for a 15-year old from the Junior Colorado Mountain Club.
  • @linab.6586
    Many times climbers only film and talk about the ascent and do not show how difficult and dangerous the descent is. Great video, many thanks and congrats.
  • @rsimko
    I am glad they included the way down, arguably the most challenging part of the whole climb. I wish somebody filmed the summit with 35-50mm lens to get a real perspective of the drop on both sides. Action cam makes is uncomfortably narrow :)
  • @bikescience1
    "La la la, this is perfectly fine". I'll have to remember that song next time I need it.
  • Some of those rocks with big cracks between them on the way down look like they could break apart and fall at any moment! That's what would scare me the most.
  • @kenpayne3822
    I climbed the Matterhorn in 1990. A wonderful climb. My German guided had made 80 summits. Thank you so much for the memories. So many came rushing back! Thank you again.
  • @cmcer1995
    Great job Julia, that was one heck of an accomplishment even with a guide. Obviously not for the faint of heart either, but you hung in there and over-came your fears. I envisioned myself once upon a time climbing K2 and beyond, but I got older and wiser and thought it's pretty exciting you do it instead.
  • @jocksterDJ
    I hate heights. But love climbing videos. Go figure. Great video. My heart was racing at several points. Well done!
  • Climbed the neighbouring (and considerably easier) Breithorn on Saturday - the Matterhorn is utterly captivating and looking across at it, I promised myself that with a few more years of Alpine experience I'll be back for it some day.
  • @mooskamoo
    Great video, makes you think just how insane the early climbers were who went up it without the fixed ropes, incredible!
  • Hello Thank you for the wonderful film about my favorite mountain. Best regards Raphael Wellig
  • The Matterhorn made such an impression on me when I first saw it in person as a young teenager, it was almost magical. It brings back those memories of imagining of what it must be like to climb. Thanks for sharing your experience
  • @PJski
    Thank you for putting this together. Very well done, and one of the more engaging videos on this climb (and descent) I've seen. I love hiking the area - but climbing like this - not for me. Physically - and mentally - it's just not for me (anymore). But... I admire, respect, and revere, those who achieve feats of this magnitude. Thank you for allowing most of us here to experience this vicariously. Cheers!
  • @mxxx0404
    Fantastic film, many congratulations - brought back a lot of memories from my climb in 2010, also with Andreas.
  • @trepicks
    Excellent photography and commentary. I enjoyed the climb with you but definitely won’t be attempting the climb myself. Congratulations!
  • @waytothesun4404
    Congratulations!! Hope to climb the Matterhorn someday. Thank you for the information and great video!!
  • @rolf_siggaard
    Many thanks for sharing your journey. Congratulations with a successful safe climb. Really appreciate your realistic presentation and fears. Well done.
  • Mental fatigue characterized by thoughts of expected comfort has always plagued my descents. One wants the descent to just be over and that once led me to a broken leg high up a volcano in winter. There must be some data behind the belief descending is more dangerous, I certainly believe this to be true. Great job and from the look of it the guide was a wise choice