Rust Remover that Actually Works

The Naval Jelly contains phosphoric acid and converts rust into iron phosphate, which is the black stuff you mentioned. :) Some rust removers use tannic acid and the byproduct is iron tannate.

I give it an A+ because it cleaned my parts and made the metal shine like new. I used a peice of Scotchbrite to scrub my parts after allowing the jelly to do it's thing. Sometimes you have to do another coat and Scotchbrite again. I sometimes use a brass "tooth brush" which is not as abrasive or steel tooth brush. Either way I will sand and prep my parts for paint or polish them a wire wheel and squirt clear on them. Other times I polish some or my parts with buffer wheel so the look like chrome and then squirt some clear. I like some kind of coating to keep my parts rusting making my work last longer. A+

Great review! I will be repairing some rocker panel rust this weekend and am very happy to see how well it works. Thanks

For heavy rust, apply a kinda thick layer then cover with plastic wrap so it won't dry out, then leave it for a few hours or overnight. It also helps if you can knock any scale or loose rust off with a wire brush. If you use a wire wheel in an angle grinder to get most of the rust off, then 5 or 10 minutes is adequate. Otherwise this stuff takes a bit more time to work.

I used this stuff to clean the chrome wire wheels on a '68 Jaguar XKE, by using a small one inch paint brush and just painting it on and around the spokes & hub then after 10 minutes hosed it off. It brought the wheels to like new condition and I received many comments and inquiries on how much I paid for new wheels. It really works.

To keep the metal from re-rusting use a good corrosion inhibitor if you don't want to paint it. Blaster Heavy Duty Corrosion Stop Protectant is good. Shake the can then spray it on and wipe it clean. Use it on my old tube radio chassis after taking the rust off with Naval Jelly. Cover up any painted surfaces when spraying it.

Great video! There are so many rust removers out there that don't do anything, it's good to find one that actually works!

The rust on the square tubing looks like the frame of a car I have and I wanted to see how it turned out before trying it. It did really well.

my vote for most hilarious commentary...of a rust removal video.

I've gotten excellent results from submerging rusted items (e.g. an old axe head, pitchfork, etc.) into a bucket of household vinegar! Works great and leaves a nice gray finish.

Used this in the 70s great stuff

black residual is probably iron phosphate, its formed when phosphoric acid ( or other acids) reacts with iron oxide, its ok to leave it their and paint on it, rust converter is often just phosphoric acid weak solution.

Wow finally a decent video with actual results.... I must do it on my car before painting the underbody :D

Naval Jelly, look up the old popular mechanics or mechanix illustrated magazines. There are so many products out there to de-solve or convert rust. My best is still the older school way, electrolytic method.

Thanks for the video.! Best way to brush something onto a surface is with a brush, just like the instructions stated. I did enjoy the finger painting, though.

Im think too try on my doors of my car, the lower parts of them its rustet and doble plated too , some steel of Japanese car its difficult too remove an stop rust of

Yes I use this on rusted steel parts from the 1950s, it works great, for deeply corroded pieces you will have to aplly multipl time...when I get the part rust free I re-blue it with gun blue....finish is quite good.

Does Klean Strip Concrete & Metal Prep leave behind some latex or acrylic coating? Is there a rust converter that only uses acid? Seems like some latex coating will negate the ability to use a primer. Ultimately, you're limited to the adhesion of that latex or acrylic.

is this similar to their rust converter spray? I think the spray can be left on after application

Looks just like naval-jelly which works great