August 2022 - Four sessions three days in a row.
40
Published 2022-08-26
The first session was pumping but unfortunately I couldn't catch any good ones. I really wanted to but it was a bit heavy and it's super dangerous with the metal I have in my spine so I just paddled out to watch.
Second session was a quick trip further down the coast to find something more manageable then session three back to the same wave to try and get a good one. I waited for ages, finally got a sick one that was more makable and the GoPro went flat literally the wave before so I never got it.
Last session was absolutely freezing cold so I only caught like 3 waves and went in haha.