Applying Decals (more advanced), for models, planes, tanks, cars, trains etc.

Great vid, thanks. I recently purchased some Vallejo Decal Fix and Decal Softener as I accidentally knocked my bottle of Microset over, stupidly tall bottle with a small diameter base! When I used the Vallejo Decal Fix on Tamiya clear coat it ate through the clear, luckily the decals weren't damaged and I was able to salvage the situation by applying another coat of clear over the decals and affected area. I put this down to being an error on my part as I only left the Tamiya clear to dry for around four hours before applying the decals. Next time I used the Vallejo Decal Fix it was on top of Tamiya paint without any clear coat applied as the surface was fairly satin and the Tamiya paint had been left to dry for 3 to 4 days. The Vallejo Decal Fix dissolved the Tamiya paint as if it was water paint in just a couple of seconds and took it right back to the Vallejo primer that I prime all of my models with, the Vallejo primer was unaffected by the Vallejo Decal Fix. This resulted in me having to respray the whole tank. I contacted Vallejo Sales about this asking if there were any known compatibility issues but they never bothered to reply. The Vallejo Decal Fix and Decal Softener are now lying in the bottom of my "Crap Modelling Products" drawer and will never be used again as I exclusively top coat my models with Tamiya acrylics.

A drop of detergent in the warm water will break the service action and release the decal from the backing paper quicker.

I'm fine with deck-ull pronunciation

Thanks. The tip about using the needle was great, using a knife on a softened decal/finished paint job is always risky. FYI for modellers outside of the US where the strong solutions have to be imported, you can make it by mixing 1 part Mr levelling thinner to 4 parts 70% IPA.

Great info! I've been using several different decal solvents but liking the Walthers lately. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for sharing your technique , this will help a lot of folks. Have a great day. -David

love the channel, keep up the great work

Super perfect tutorial. Thanks.

Thanks Jason, useful stuff. I pronounce decal as “transfer”. Hope that’s OK.

Bloody good!

I have a 10 yr old bottle of solvaset and use only that, have no troubles with decals.

Have you figured out how to get Airfix decals to conform without using a combination of 93 octane gas and unicorn tears?

To be honest, i never liked the mr mark setter and softer stuff, tamiya's strong mark setter is the best stuff i've used. I use it as a softer and a setter.

Hmmm if I’m using micro set and micro sol, the micro sol should shrivel the decal up , and as it starts to dry off and pull the decal into all the recesses and rivet’s. Never had to do anything other,. Also when using micro set to first apply decals it should hold the decal as it sucks it down. It’s only to reduce water retention under the decal.

Thanks for your videos! To your experience, does mr. mark setter and softer have an expiry date? Mine are ten year old and don't seem to melt decals

In this case the problem is, if the decal isn't conforming well enough to the point you have to score and rivet it, then your solutions aren't really doing that good of a job. Shouldn't be a problem for mr mark setter when used as per instructions, tho'

For really stubborn carrier film 'edges' (usually on thick decals), I like Will Pattison's method of building up a surrounding gloss coat and then sanding down carefully to create a level surface.

Hello I have a 1/24 model and I have to put decal on decal how would you do this ?

Thank you very much, in that case you didn't glossing varnish on a surface before applying?

how about the solvaset?